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  #1  
Old 05-20-2005, 09:38 PM
X 99 X 99 is offline
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I posted on here a few weeks ago about a possible weak spark issue. Well I'm still having the same problems. My spark is so weak that I can literally hold the coil wire while cranking the engine and only feel a little tickle in my palm. My spark will not jump from the coil wire to ground. I have to put the coil wire no more than a 1/8" from a ground source just to see the spark. Any futher than that and I get no spark at all. I tested the ground and it's fine. I've tried 3 Blaster 2 coils (1 used / 2 brand new) and no change. I replaced the coil wire, still no change. I tried testing the box useing the jumper wire test and could not get a spark. The engine does run and runs smooth but I have other proplems I think may be related to this weak spark issue. Slower than expected ET, Engine blows smoke at idle, & foiling plugs. Please help

I'm useing a brand new 6AL box (mounted behind front seats), Blaster 2 coil (mounted under dash in vertical position), & MSD retard box.
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Old 05-22-2005, 02:37 PM
Lazarus Lazarus is offline
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X99,
The mounting positions of the ignition and coil make me suspect problems with the installation. Certainly your weak spark test is not recommended, but lets us know that there is a problem, to be sure.

(BTW, holding a bare coil wire with a correctly installed CD ignition will be very painful and I would discontinue that practice completely!)

Let's see, you have a multimeter, right? Heavy power wires run directly to the battery terminals from the 6A? A full 12 volts on the small red (switched 12volts) wire? MSD Black and Orange wires are the only wires connected to the coil??? AND, you are using a well-insulated, through-the-firewall fitting for the high tension lead like the MSD p/n 8211??? AND, you have installed helically-wound wires such as MSD Heli-Core or SuperConductors???

I would also take a careful look at the Orange and Black coil wire routing from the 6A to the coil. These wires carry 500 volt pulses and must be separated from other low-voltage wiring. Remove the coil wires and take a resistance reading accross the coil primary and from coil secondary to
coil (-). And finally, make certain that your engine block is well-grounded to the frame and to the battery minus terminal.
Report back.
-Lazarus
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Old 05-24-2005, 09:52 PM
X 99 X 99 is offline
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Heavy power wires run directly to the battery terminals from the 6A? Yes

A full 12 volts on the small red (switched 12volts) wire? Yes

MSD Black and Orange wires are the only wires connected to the coil??? Yes

AND, you are using a well-insulated, through-the-firewall fitting for the high tension lead like the MSD p/n 8211??? No, but I have a 3" hole in firewall with a thick rubber gromet which the wire runs though

AND, you have installed helically-wound wires such as MSD Heli-Core or SuperConductors??? Yes, Taylor 409's

I would also take a careful look at the Orange and Black coil wire routing from the 6A to the coil. These wires carry 500 volt pulses and must be separated from other low-voltage wiring. Not to be a wise guy but short of running these wires on the exterior of the car how do you keep them away from other wires in the car? At some point these wires will be near other wires

Remove the coil wires and take a resistance reading accross the coil primary and from coil secondary to
coil (-). What type of meter do I need to do this? Keep in mind I've tried 3 coils

And finally, make certain that your engine block is well-grounded to the frame and to the battery minus terminal. Engine has 2 ground straps

I've also re-traced all my wiring and it is all correct. I bypassed the retard box to see if that was interfering somehow and still no change. Is there anything else I can try? I must admit I'm losing faith in MSD and there products.
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Old 05-24-2005, 11:34 PM
Lazarus Lazarus is offline
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Losing faith is totally up to you. We can help you figure out what is wrong and you might learn something by doing the troubleshooting correctly.

The MSD coil wires should not be routed carelessly behind the dash, especially near the instrument cluster. If the Black and Orange coil wires have to be extended, use at least 12 gauge wire with soldered or correctly crimped connectors.

If the main power wires need to be extended (obviously they do), then #12 or #10 wire should be used, correctly soldered/sealed or crimped. No grounding the black power wire to the frame behind the seat!

The engine block appears to be grounded to the frame. Is the frame connected to the battery (-)?

The multimeter can be used to check the resistance of the coil primary and secondary. The primary should be under 1 ohm, and the secondary around 1.5 Kohms. While you are at it, confirm that your coil wire is good - the wire should read 1000 ohms or less for 4 feet of wire.

Did you try 3 new Blaster 2 coils, or just 3 random coils?

...sounds like you do not have a digital multimeter in your tool kit. I would suggest that this equipment is the minimum necessary for doing ANY electrical work, especially installing a performance ignition. Personally I prefer the Fluke meter, but there are many good ones out there.
Hook the stuff up right, and it will work for you.

-Lazarus
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  #5  
Old 05-28-2005, 08:48 PM
X 99 X 99 is offline
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Even though the engine starts and runs, should I be concerned that the MSD jumper wire test did not work?
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Old 10-12-2008, 10:41 PM
Levonh Levonh is offline
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Any update?
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  #7  
Old 10-14-2008, 08:52 AM
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msdtech1955 msdtech1955 is offline
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have you checked to see if the leads going to the coil are not grounded ..
or maybe a poor connection?

the fact that you put several coils on there ...and the problemis still present
leads me to believe that either, the coil leads are coming into contact with ground . or the box has an issue ....

i would ohm out the coil leads first , from the coil to the box.
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