I really don't believe that moisture or weather, etc. plays a part in any of this. The same problem existed even with the new distributor right out of the box, followed by the remaining ignition components that I then replaced.
@Tech1955 - Let's pretend for a minute that you don't know any of the history behind my issue and that I simply posted this question for help:
"What would cause a cylinder(s) not to fire, but if I remove the spark plug wire from the plug itself & place it close enough to the plug, the cylinder then fires fine with the spark arching from the plug wire to the plug - but if I then reattach the plug wire the cylinder goes dead again? "
I would really like & appreciate your expertise on that specific question, because it makes absolutely no sense to me and I've never before experienced a problem such as that. When I once spoke to one of your techs via phone awhile back, he told me that he believed it was the fact that I was running aluminum heads and that I hadn't grounded each head, stating that the motor ground isn't a sufficient ground for the heads and that they each had to be grounded separate of the motor ground. I did that, and the problem yet exists.
I talked again with Tech Support today, explained the entire issue again and the tech suggested rotor phasing. He attributed this to a couple things - 1) the small cap on a Mallory distributor coupled with the intense spark delivered by the MSD causing the misfiring, and/or - 2) the timing box (8680). He suggested I bypass the timing box and check to see if the issue still exists, though that obviously wouldn't fix a potential issue with the distributor cap. I really don't want to invest in another distributor but I'm considering an MSD. Frustrating as it is, he too could not explain why the cylinder would fire when I added the resistance of disconnecting the plug wire causing the spark to arch.
Last edited by Bigdawg0114; 02-11-2013 at 07:58 AM.